A lot of loft accidents happen on the way up or down. Wobbling on a stepladder while pushing a hatch open, or trying to lower a heavy box through a small opening, is how people get hurt. A fitted loft ladder gives you a stable, permanent way into the roof space that folds away when you do not need it.
We supply and fit timber, aluminium and concertina loft ladders, along with new insulated hatches where the existing one is too small, draughty or in the wrong place. Because we know roof spaces well, we also check the loft at the top of the ladder: somewhere safe to step off, a light to see by and a firm area to stand on.
Types of loft ladder
- Folding timber ladders usually come as a kit with a hinged, insulated hatch. They feel solid underfoot, have wide treads and are a good everyday choice.
- Sliding aluminium ladders in two or three sections are light, simple and economical. They suit occasional use and smaller hatches.
- Concertina ladders fold up like an accordion and need very little space in the loft, ideal where the hatch is close to the eaves or a water tank.
- Telescopic ladders retract into a compact stack and suit tight spaces, though they can feel less rigid.
Handrails, wider treads and a pole to open the hatch from below can all make a ladder easier to use, especially if more than one person in the house will be going up.
Check the load rating too. Ladders are rated for a maximum weight, and that figure needs to cover you plus whatever you are carrying. If you regularly take heavy boxes up, a sturdier timber model with a higher rating is the sensible choice over the lightest aluminium option.
Measuring up and choosing a position
Three measurements decide which ladder will fit: the height from floor to ceiling, the size of the hatch opening, and the space available both in the loft and on the landing for the ladder to swing or slide down. The ladder must land on level floor, never on a stair.
Many Victorian and Edwardian homes in Newcastle have taller ceilings than modern houses, sometimes beyond the range of standard ladders. Longer models are available, so we measure before recommending one. In Tyneside flats, the hatch is usually in the upstairs flat's landing or a small bedroom, where space is tight and a concertina or compact folding model often works best.
Hatches, joists and keeping the heat in
Old loft hatches are often small, uninsulated boards resting in a frame, and they leak heat and moist air straight into the loft. A modern hatch with an insulated door and seals reduces both.
If the opening needs enlarging, at least one ceiling joist usually has to be cut. That must be done properly, with the cut joist trimmed and supported by doubled timbers either side so the ceiling and anything stored above remain well supported. We never simply saw through a joist and leave it hanging, and we check for cables, pipes and ducts before cutting.
Trussed rafter roofs, common in houses built from the later twentieth century onwards, are different. Their timbers work together as a frame, and cutting any part of a truss to fit a larger hatch can weaken the roof. Where trusses are present, we size the hatch to fit between them.
When a loft ladder is not enough
A loft ladder is designed for occasional access to a storage loft. If you plan to turn the loft into a bedroom, office or other habitable room, building regulations normally require a permanent staircase, or in restricted spaces an alternating tread stair or fixed ladder. A retractable loft ladder is not accepted for that purpose. If a conversion is on your horizon, we will mention it before you choose a ladder.
